Surf
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Board Shaping with Robert August
During our stay in Tamarindo, we had the opportunity to attend a board shaping demo with Robert August. You may have heard of him from the movie Endless Summer, which he and his friends filmed while surfing across the world. Robert August spends most of his days now in Tamarindo, in addition to traveling here and there. If you ever get the chance to meet him, he’s very friendly and a vivid storyteller. Robert grew up in California, and was lucky enough to have a dad who would make surfboards for him. So he was raised watching boards morph from heavy boat-like pieces of hardwood to the lightweight, finned and…
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Matagorda Spring Surf Breakers
Last weekend the beach was so crowded with Spring Breakers! It was cool to see so many people having such a good time out there, even if the shoreline did get really full. We had to drive foreeeeever to find a space we fit in, but luckily Chris has his cute little white-top FJ to 4×4 us wherever we need to go to find the right waves. We hadn’t been to the beach together since the cloudy day in Galveston surfing in the fog after Christmas. It had been too long! Between our busy schedules and disorganized weekend waves, there just wasn’t a good day until now. Welcome to the…
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Cloud Surfing in Galveston
Last Wednesday we took the day off and went down to Galveston for some long glassy longboard waves. A thick fog had rolled in overnight, so in the early morning you couldn’t see farther than a few feet in front of you. It was almost more like cloud surfing in Galveston. Slide. The beach is rarely so crowded this early, but the fog made everything seem even more quiet since you couldn’t see the other people on the beach. Especially out on the water. I’m not going to lie, when I was first walking in I did feel the subtle panic that a shark might suck me under and away.…
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Christmas Surfside
Surfing on Christmas is becoming something of a tradition for Chris and me. As it should. At two years, we’re still a relatively new relationship navigating through both of our families’ Christmas timelines. It’s important to remember to take the time on Christmas to do something for ourselves. Last year we broke away to Surfside to try out the new paddleboard Chris bought me, and this year we snuck out to spend a bit of Christmas Surfside again before heading back in time for Christmas dinner at my mother’s house. Honestly, it seemed more like spring than winter out there! Not that I’m complaining. Last year I only went out…
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Surfing Around Matagorda Beach
For anyone else who tires of being a spectator, here’s something surfy from Chris’s point of view surfing around Matagorda Beach. These were all taken using Chris’s GoPro on a beautiful, clean fall day on the beach with some beautiful waves. Standing on the beach taking pictures is fun for a while, but soon enough you have to test the waters. For me, the point of view of the video really underscores the amount of effort it takes to get in there and the singleminded purpose it takes. Waves are messy (just like life). It’s literally an uphill battle to get out there – all for a few seconds sliding…
