For anyone else who tires of being a spectator, here’s something surfy from Chris’s point of view surfing around Matagorda Beach. These were all taken using Chris’s GoPro on a beautiful, clean fall day on the beach with some beautiful waves. Standing on the beach taking pictures is fun for a while, but soon enough you have to test the waters.
For me, the point of view of the video really underscores the amount of effort it takes to get in there and the singleminded purpose it takes. Waves are messy (just like life). It’s literally an uphill battle to get out there – all for a few seconds sliding down a slick glassy surface. The feeling like you’re flying makes it totally worth the effort, not to mention the subtle colors and textures of the water. It turns into an obsession. Chris calls this “the fever”. Stand up and get stoked!
It’s finally cool enough in the water to need a wetsuit. Soon enough the water will be truly icey. More serious surfers know surfing is a winter sport. The best waves roll in with cold winter storm waters. I don’t know how they do it! I’ll take a balmy beach, a lazy paddle, and a mushy slope any day.
Looking for that stoke? Don’t go in without the right gear (trust me). It doesn’t really get that cold in the Gulf of Mexico, but it’s cold enough for me! We usually wear 2/3 mm wetsuits, which are good for subtropical winter waters surfing around Matagorda Beach. These are our water sport gear staples- along with boards, which you should really buy locally: